Diana Tuova
Two thousand twenty-three was a year of great food films and documentaries. Anh Hung Tran’s heart-warming and simple, yet supremely elegant and beautiful The Taste of Things and Frederick Wiseman’s fascinating documentary Menus-Plaisirs: Les Troisgros are just a couple of films that captured the audience’s imagination with their mouth-watering dishes and dedication shown to culinary art, reminding us once again that food is so much more than just the source of our sustenance. It can be a life passion, an exploratory journey, and a sure way of bridging people’s differences by bringing them to one table. While there are now many documentaries that focus on such topical issues as sustainable produce and food security, there are also others that simply celebrate different culinary traditions. Below are seven great food documentaries that make you view or appreciate food from a different perspective.
Julia (2021)
There has been a number of films exploring the life of Julia Child (1912 – 2004), a famous chef, television personality and educator, including feature film Julie & Julia, starring Meryl Streep, but the 2021 documentary Julia truly does justice to the culinary icon that revolutionised American kitchens. With one larger-than-life personality, a passion for cooking and desire to share that passion with others, Child conquered the American public, championing French food in particular and the woman’s leading role in positions that have been previously the reserve of male chefs only. Julie Cohen and Betsy West, the duo of directors, weaved into their documentary many interviews, clips from Child’s shows and a vivid historical timeline to make their film intimate and considerate as it focuses on such elements as the publication of Child’s book Mastering the Art of French Cooking (1961) and Child’s relationship with husband Paul. This is a memorable, warm portrayal of America’s beloved TV chef.
Jiro Dreams of Sushi (2011)
Food is taken seriously in Japan, and its preparation/presentation is often elevated to a form of art. Jiro Dreams of Sushi details the life of Jiro Ono (1925-), a master maker (shokunin) of sushi. His restaurant in Tokyo only has a sitting for roughly ten people, but it serves the most coveted sushi in the world. Watching this documentary, it becomes clear that there is so much more to sushi preparation that just sourcing the fish and handling all the ingredients – that is if one desires to make the best sushi in the world. It is an insightful, inspiring and simply great food documentary that both presents the intriguing man who still, after decades and decades of sushi-making, tries to achieve the full mastery of his craft, as well as divulges the intricacies of sushi-making.
Somm: Into the Bottle (2015)
This is the second documentary in Jason Wise’s trilogy of films about wine, which goes through its topic through ten, loosely interconnected “bottle” chapters. From grape harvesting, wine production and trade to the responsibilities of sommelier (there is still no general agreement as to their exact duties), the film sheds light on many aspects of wine-making and its history, while also spotlighting different kinds of wine (from common to rare vintage). Through interviews with experts and wine connoisseurs, we learn that a perfect wine is a matter of taste, and a wine cellar full of mold and fungi (zasmidium cellare) is an ideal environment for wine storage. There are differences between European and American wines, and the pairing of food with a specific wine is still a hotly contested issue. Like a good wine, Somm is balanced, providing a bouquet of fun, stimulating information regarding one of the most beloved alcoholic beverages.
Poisoned: The Dirty Truth About Your Food (2023)
This is another great food documentary, but it is different from others on this list as it concerns possible dangers hidden inside our daily meals. It is based on Jeff Benedict’s book Poisoned: The True Story of the Deadly E. Coli Outbreak That Changed the Way Americans Eat. It first presents food safety lawyer Bill Marler who details the history of food poisoning outbreaks in the US and how the fight to achieve justice for the victims is fraught with many difficulties, from a number of regulatory bodies responsible for different foodstuffs to food companies’ attempts at cover-up. “48 million people get foodbourne disease every year in US”, and the culprit food can be anything from vegetables to baby formulas, the film tells us. The case that changed how America views food poisoning was the infamous 1993 Jack in the Box E. coli outbreak, that killed four children and affected more than seventy hundred adults. However, after meat had started to be better regulated, the suspect food also became raw spinach and lettuce.
The documentary is incredibly eye-opening and well-presented, sending out an emotional message through the victims affected by the outbreaks, while also providing much detailed information about the state of regulatory food control in the country. Stephanie Soechtig (The Devil We Know) is already known for her infuriatingly revealing documentary works, and Poisoned does not disappoint.
King Corn (2007)
“You are what you eat”, it is often said. King Corn may be dated now, but it is still a great food documentary that looks at corn, a grain that made its way into virtually every food product in America. The film starts with two friends, Ian Cheney and Curt Ellis, who simply became curious about their diet and health, and soon realised that all their inquiries lead to one product: corn. As a result of its cheapness and mass production that relies on easy substance modification, corn became the number one food ingredient of the US. From fizzy drinks to salad dressings and meat, it can be found in most products—with negative health and long-term environmental consequences. The documentary provides much insight into corn and its place in American diet, and is both entertaining and informative.
Sour Grapes (2016)
This great food documentary is also about wine and its fascinating world, but, this time, the story uncovers deceit and wine counterfeiting perpetuated by little-known Indonesia-born man Rudy Kurniawan, who started buying and selling large quantities of rare and highly expensive wine in the early 2000s. The documentary is as thrilling as it can get, and, as Kurniawan’s incredible story unfolds, we learn that he not only befriended influential wine connoisseurs and collectors, but also eventually sold millions worth of wine through actions.
One can only guess that if one tries to enter an extremely exclusive world, anything is possible because so few people would even think about trying to approach it, especially knowing how much insider information and what connections one must have before doing such a thing. As a result, Sour Grapes also reminds of the infamous impersonation case of Francisco Nicolás Gómez Iglesias, a young man who managed to “infiltrate” the highest echelons of Spanish politics without anyone realising that he is not, in fact, a millionaire with connections, but simply a law student passing himself as rich and influential.
The Truffle Hunters (2020)
The Truffle Hunters offers an insight into one idiosyncratic world—that of “truffle hunters” in the secluded region of northern Italy. A group of aging men spend their days searching for the white Alba truffle, one of the most valuable and highly sought-after foodstuffs. They do so with the help of their dogs and their superior olfactory skills. The film’s cinematography that often focuses on the beauty of the Italian countryside is gorgeous, and the man-dog camaraderie on display is heart-warming. The Truffle Hunters will delight especially those who love films that explore little known places, rare commodities and niche jobs.
